Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

If Finnegan wasn't a staff writer at the New Yorker, I wonder if this would have been a Pulitzer winner. Memoirs are navel-gazing at their core but this one felt especially so. I tried not to compare it to this year's Pulitzer winner for the same category – [b:The Return: Fathers, Sons, and the Land in Between 28007895 The Return Fathers, Sons, and the Land in Between Hisham Matar https://images.gr-assets.com/books/1457891417s/28007895.jpg 48015462] – and failed. I'm looking forward to discussing this with book club this weekend, but this one was Not For Me.