The Modern Age of Mexico's Most Traditional Spirit
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"Chantal Martineau has written a compelling travelogue, tasting guide, business analysis, and ecological primer that firmly places tequila and its cousins as worthy spirits beyond cheap college margarita drunks." —Mark Pendergrast, author of Uncommon Grounds Tequila is one of the fastest-growing spirits categories in America, the margarita the country's most popular cocktail. But no longer is it only cheap party fuel—it has become America's luxury sipping spirit. How the Gringos Stole Tequila eloquently traces this extraordinary evolution. Author Chantal Martineau spent years immersing herself in the world of tequila––traveling to visit distillers and farmers in Mexico, meeting and tasting with leading experts and mixologists around the United States, and interviewing academics on either side of the border who have studied the spirit and its raw material: agave. Her book addresses issues surrounding the sustainability of the limited resource that is agave, the preservation of traditional production methods, and the legal constructs designed to protect tequila from counterfeiting. But it also takes readers on a colorful tour of the country's Tequila Trail, introducing them to the mother of tequila: mezcal. Including an unprecedented drinking guide to Mexico's agave-based spirits and a stunning collection of full-color photographs of the production process, How the Gringos Stole Tequila will long remain the definitive look at the evolution of North America's only truly native spirit. Chantal Martineau has written articles about food, drink, culture, and travel for the Atlantic, the Guardian, Redbook, Saveur, Time Out, the Village Voice, and Wine Enthusiast, among others. She lives in New York City.
Reviews with the most likes.
It's incredibly fascinating how our understanding of tequila has evolved over time. From the mixtos of our youth, served more as a dare and leading to mornings of regret — to the first wave of 100% pure agave tequilas including Patron that broke open the North American market. As the market began to grow exponentially, conglomerates looked to mass production, leading to the industrialization of the spirit. Massive planting of blue Weber agave is creating a monoculture which threatens genetic robustness, leaving entire yields vulnerable to a single blight. Big business is also working to crowd out independent growers and celebrity tequilas are more concerned with turning a fast buck. Even the 100% pure agave tequilas could sneak in a single percentage of flavouring agents without having to change the labeling, leading to aficionados looking for truly additive free tequilas still using traditional methods. Which leads us to folks seeking out mezcal for a truly small batch, terroir infused, artisanal spirit.
Chantal Martineau tells the whole story in an engaging, in depth way that makes this essential reading for the tequila fan.