Indians On Horseback

This excellent book - half travel story, half a study in the customs and people - really does provide a successful balance in the writing. Swedish anthropologist Gustav Bolinder has made three journeys to the remote Guajira Peninsula on the north coast of South America, split between Colombia and Venezuela.

His first, and what is the primary visit was in 1920, accompanied by his wife and and a Norwegian photographer named Ottar Gladtvet. This was very much a pioneering journey, strongly warned against by all who were asked, as the Indians had been known as hostile to all non-Indians.
The Guajira Indians are interesting, and well known for their horseriding - identified as the only mounted native Indians in the Americas. They are arranged in strong clans, and led by powerful chiefs.

The book is very readable, and follows a travel narrative as they make their way on an extensive journey through the peninsula. Bolinder interrupts his travel narrative with focussed explanations on aspects of culture or tradition - almost essays. These cover aspects such as the matrilineal nature of the clan structure (children retain the mothers name, and clad association, the maternal eldest uncle being the male figure who makes decisions for them, rather than the natural father); trade goods (pearls and salt primarily); slaves and the slave culture (either those captured in battle - actual slaves, or indentured workers) and the complex rules around the bounds of their status - what happens when they give birth, how to become free etc); the tribal laws, and how breaking of laws is dealt with; some tribal customs around fertility, dances and celebrations; death and funereal rites; medicine and the spirits; and other aspects in a thorough anthropological record. The information however, is still presented in a way that it is very readable, and suitable for the general reader.

As well he describes the towns and villages, and the differences the different places have, as well as commenting on how the Colombian influenced towns differ from the Venezuelan influenced towns. There is a chapter on the Indians who live on stilt houses out over the water. Also examined throughout are the relationships the mixed-blood Indians have - a foot in each camp so to speak.

Where it is applicable the author adds small amounts of information from his second journey in the 1930s, but this is relatively minor. The final chapter covers his return visit in 1955, thirty-five years after his initial visit. In this chapter only he outlines the progress during that period. He comes across as being careful not to be negative or positive about the change - times must change, and I get the impression he remains passive because he recognises that to return to place and see ‘western progress' is hard to reconcile with your memories, and will naturally feel negative.

This was a great read, and while I don't give out 5 stars very readily, this book just got things right. Somewhat obscure, but worth seeking out, in my opinion.