Michel the Giant: An African in Greenland

Wow, this was just a fantastic read. It was shortlisted for the Thomas Cook Travel Book Awards in 1983, but inexplicably did not win. For me this was 5 stars from the midway point, and nothing changed that.

The author, as a teen in Togo, picked up a book on Eskimo in Greenland, and decided there and then that one day he would go to live there. Childhood dreams, random factors influence what gets decided, and I expect 99% fall away and life goes on.

In the late 1950s the author left his home town, running away from being forced to join a snake cult! (I won't spoil the great story behind this). He left with no money, but went to the Ivory Coast and worked - throughout the book he is a hard worker, as well as a good learner - and saved some money. He moved on to Senegal, and from there to France, then Germany and eventually to Denmark. Throughout his journey he proved to have a propensity for learning languages.

Tété-Michel Kpomassi has many skills - the obvious one is his charm and ability to endear himself to people. People help him every step of his journey. Yes, he is obviously out of place, and attracts attention for what he is doing, but he is such a willing learner, and driven to succeed that people reward that. He was the recipient of so much good will, this book ran the risk of becoming such a good-news story that it could have been too much. But it was expertly saved - the writing in this book and the translation (written in French, translated by James Kirkup) are excellent.

And so, from Denmark Kpomassi achieves his goal and reaches Greenland. Before he even sets foot on land he was the most unusual thing ever seen in the country! He was welcomed almost universally, he was subject to hospitality from the rich down to the most poor persons in the village. He travelled extensively around the south of Greenland, then as the long winter approached he took himself north, looking for a place to stay throughout the winter. He engaged in all local activities, stepped into the Greenland culture, fully immersed himself in the language and shared his positivity with all.

While the book details a huge amount about the Greenland way of life and culture (perhaps the most ever in a non-academic book) it also provides a lot of comparison with Kpomassi's life in Togo, and the Togolese culture. These were perhaps some of the most fascinating aspects of the book. There is much to learn and also be amused with in the cultural examination that Greenlanders and Danish settlers are put through in this book - from cuisine to hunting and fishing, relationships and cultural fopars to alcoholism and promiscuity.

There are some unpleasantries dealt with in the book - so readers be warned. The Inuit are a people who hunt for survival. The catch whales and various other mammals and birds, they all have hunting dogs who pull sleds, but are also eaten in harder times. Alcohol is a problem that leads to violence. There is a non-judgmental approach to the writing, but some may be disturbed by the descriptive explanations.

In my edition there is a 2014 afterword, that shares the authors return to Togo and his family 12 years after setting out on his journey. It goes on to explain the success of this book, and the extensive speaking tours and return visits to France and Greenland to promote his book, give lectures and visit his friends.

Worth seeking out.
5 stars.