Ruhlman's Twenty

I don't know if I can describe how much I loved this book. What a superb accomplishment.

The Goodreads blurb describes Twenty as a cookbook, which is sort of true. It does have recipes, and it is about how to cook, but I think that description is a terrible disservice to it. I wouldn't like to have to describe it in one sentence, but if I had to, I would say that it's not so much about how to cook as it is about how to cook better.

The basic structure of the book, as you're probably already aware, is a set of the twenty (mostly) distinct techniques that Ruhlman regards as the essential techniques of a well-rounded cook. We can debate whether “well-rounded” is the right term – initially I wrote “complete,” but I suspect an absolute is inappropriate – but I think it's approximately on target.

Ruhlman begins by explaining what each technique comprises, delves into the theory of why you would choose to use that technique along with some nuances, and then provides several recipes that use that technique, so that you can put theory into practice. Recipes here are an educational tool, a lab, a practicum.

Twenty is a lot of things, but most of all it's blueprint for self-improvement, and I value that very highly. I found it educational and also inspirational. I don't know that this is where I'd recommend a new cook start, although you certainly could work through the chapters and recipes and learn a lot; there are some important things to know – like safe knife technique, for example, and lots of others. I think a new cook also needs a gentler introduction. My recommendation for someone who doesn't cook already remains Bittman's How To Cook Everything: The Basics.

The audience I'd suggest for this book is basically people like me: people who already cook, but are seeking to elevate their game to the next level. For that audience I can't recommend Twenty enough. A remarkable achievement, and one that will help me, personally, to improve and change the way I think about cooking.