Where the Poor are Happy

Published in 1955, I assume the travel to have occurred in the early 1950s, but I can't be sure. The SS Matua, which ran between the islands and New Zealand ran from 1936 to 1968. Starting with his inspiration - in the form of various authors who have told tales of the south sea islands, and a few quotes, this author sets off on a cargo ship bound for Australia, working as an assistant purser, to depart in Sydney with Tahiti his end goal. A quick trip to Melbourne, then a return lift caught with a truck driver from Melbourne to Sydney and off on a ‘Colonial Sugar Refining Company' ship to Fiji.

Owen spends a few months in Fiji, in his defense not hanging with the colonials much, and attempting to get remote and try and understand the Fijian people. He is quote dismissive of the Indian Fijians, and doesn't have much to do with them. Here the book covers a range of things - mostly cultural and descriptions of ‘modern' Fijian life, but also some history and some dated (and pointless) gossip about individuals. Owen avoids the capital, spending as much time as he can on Vanua Levu, making friends and attending parties.

After his time is done here he starts to investigate options for his onward journey, and ends up crewing on a private yacht. While acting as the cook, he doesn't enjoy his time back with Europeans, and while he intended to stay on board after a brief stop in American Samoa, he takes the opportunity to depart to catch the Government Ship on to Tonga.

After a brief stop in Tonga it is on to Tahiti, where he spends plenty of time contemplating the difference between the French administration and the British of Fiji. There is far less a colour bar in Tahiti, where fewer Europeans look down on the natives, and there is much more cohabitation going on! Again Owen looks to avoid the capital, but ends up living in various situations just on the outskirts of the capital. Again he takes a European view, but is far more accommodating, complementary and non-judgemental towards the native way of life than most.

In spite of setting himself up with a Tahitian girlfriend, and travelling all over, taking in festivals and celebrations, Owen is unable ultimately to settle, and pines for Britain (as unlikely as that seems!) He really had a well established situation in Tahiti, was popular and got on with various of the important people, both French and native Tahitian, was able to carry out minimal work to keep himself in adequate food, had free lodging in the house his girlfriend looked after (for a Frenchman who visited irregularly) and in her own house on another island.

And so to wrap up, the books title comes from the fact Owen considers there is no poverty in Tahiti - only people who are poor. It is, at this time, relatively simple to catch enough fish to eat well, there are places to live and sleep available, and when people have money they are expected to spend it not just on themselves, but on others, living a communal lifestyle; thus, Tahiti is where the poor are happy.

3 stars.