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Published in 1908, with the travel in the few years preceding, this book describes the journey of Louisa Jebb and her female companion named only ‘X' in the text, from Istanbul to Baghdad, to Damascus. In spite of all the help afforded them by officials on route (travelling with guides, protection from soldiers etc) this was of course still a brave undertaking, given the prevalence of bandits and the like.
Of course the people along the way, while excessively interested in the women and their journey (or more particularly what they are doing in their town/village) were of course almost always very courteous and generous.
As well as travel by horse with mules taking baggage and equipment, the most interesting aspect of the travel was rafting down the Tigris River – a significant distance from Diarkbekr to Baghdad – some 800 kilometres.
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We were using 260 of them [inflated goat skins]... They were tied on to two layers of poplar poles put crossways, forming a raft about eighteen feet square. At one end were two small huts made of felt stretched across upright poles; the fore end was weighted down with bags of merchandise laid side by side across the poles to form a rough floor.
Our friends, however were decidedly encouraging as we bade them goodbye. “You will probably meet with Kurds”, then said, “but if they do shoot at you it will only be for the fun of sinking the raft; they may rob you and strip you, but if you don't resist they won't kill you.” We were distinctly elated.
“What a picturesque man the kalekji is,” X exclaimed suddenly. “I take such a delight in watching him shaking out his flowing garments and folding himself up in such graceful attitudes.”“Personally,” I said, with some malice, “it gives me no pleasure since I became aware that he is only engaged in hunting for fleas.”X made no answer; I felt we were quits. She would have to think of the presence of fleas while I thought of the absence of dinner.
