Dust on My Shoes

This was going to be a five star book all along. Before I even opened the cover, I could have awarded those stars. In 2018 when I bought it, intending to read it the following year (I had already read one Pinney book that year), I wouldn't have anticipated I could save it this long. This is his first book, and one of the last I have been able to obtain - which is ironic, considering it was his most popular and likely re-printed the most. I will now re-read them in the order of his travels, and enjoy them as much as the first time no doubt, as I believe him to be my favourite author - which is a big call.

To the story - we join Peter Pinney in Greece, low on funds, without luggage, making friends and enjoying the freedom of travel - not an unfamiliar situation for anyone who had read his books before. No change of clothes, no personal belongings that don't fit in his pockets (a razor, a pipe, a notebook and pencil, that's about it). Greece is in the midst of a civil war, rebels fighting the army, and they block his way to Turkey, but it would take more than a war to turn him aside.

In Turkey, Erdine, en-route to Istanbul to be exact, we meet briefly Robert Marchand, the Dutch traveller who continually crosses paths to travel with Pinney in this book. Marchand is a good match for Pinney, although perhaps a little more prepared to cross certain moral lines than Peter, for he makes a point not to take money from the proceeds of crime - often. And so the two travel together briefly until one or other wanders off without warning, although they meet again in unlikely locations.

He carries on to travel through Syria, Lebanon (part of Syria at this time), Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India (and Assam) and Burma (Myanmar). I won't spoil all the excitement of the book, but there is much to take in on this journey.

An objection to bureaucracy, a dislike for the corruption of power (low and high ranking police, military and border guards typically fall into this category) or for people who are simply unpleasant all rub Pinney up the wrong way. He is forthright, yet seems to attract the best luck and lucky circumstances that ever graced a traveller without the necessary funds, or inherent rights to be going the places he goes. To be fair he always tries to obtain visa's where able, but often the bureaucracy and lack of logic makes this impossible.

There are a number of black and white photographs - generally very good. While the timing of these doesn't align with the narrative too well, they are a great addition, but as I have found with his other books, he never talks bout carrying a camera, so I am a little perplexed about how he obtains these. There is a map on the inside of the cover which is great, but is small scale, although it is marked with all the main places featured in the narrative.

As forewarned above - 5 stars.

I strained my eyes in vain to see through the moving mists ahead and glimpse the land which lay before us, the mountainous wilderness through which we would have to pass by secret ways before reaching the Chindwin Valley, and wondered what Burma might hold for. For Burma is a deadly place......

I read Peter Pinney's trilogy of WW2 novels a few years back and was enthralled. After the last I recall reading up on Pinney and after his return from the war it could be said he was unsettled with the possibility of the boredom of suburban life. He upped and basically travelled with immediate effect. When asked why at one point he replied along the lines that he wanted to go to places he had never been. By goodness, I can relate to this. Just on my walks in my neighbourhood the need to look up a street I have never been is always an urge. Imagine just being able to just up stumps and clear off to places unknown without care for comfort or home. This is for me real travel, taking a look.

In Greece we are told of “Guerrillas, Girls and Mined Railways.” It is just after the end of World War 2 and with that a country in the throes of civil war. He gets to see a train blown up, among other events, as he travels onto Turkey with its “Police, Petites Bêtes and Prostitutes.” While here he met Dutchman Robert Marchand who became his travelling companion for most parts of this journey. Pinney described him as debonair, cynical, light hearted, proud and resolute: a peerless companion.

After leaving Turkey they discovered “Dust, Liquor and the Syrian Army” Many a lie was told by the duo to get around officious border guards with the big one being that of joining the army. Iraq “whom the gods would destroy, they make mad first” At one point there is a court to face and the judges askes are they Christians or Jews? Christians they answered. ‘Case dismissed.'

Onto “A blithe Regard for Facts” that is Iran. Pinney describes the splendour of Tehran that is equalled by the squalor of its suburbs. Next is Afghanistan with its “Snow, Hashish and Red Pants” Pinney describes it as militant. That describes it's entire existence from the deep past to the present. Interestingly he describes that behind the suspicious mind of the locals was but a ‘generous nature of extraordinary hospitality'.

A short chapter on going through Pakistan, “Refugees, and echoes of the Past”, and into India with “Each Skull a box of worms before its time, To fish for bloaters of Sub-Human crime”. He described Calcutta as “....an evil city and a dirty one, where the rich are callous and the poor legion; a place of many gods but little godliness.” At this point Pinney and Marchand are keen to travel to Burma but there are many official obstacles, so they head as close as possible to Assam, land of “The Plains, the Jungle and Drunk Headhunters.” While there they hook up with another lost soul, an Italian called Roie Da Rosa who was described as “friendly” and having “...less money than we...”.

Last is Burma and “The Road to Mandalay”. The longest chapter of the book at 60 pages in my copy and a riveting read. Again in the midst of a civil war both Pinney and Marchand are looking for that road to lead them to မန္တလေး. Most of their time is spent in Homalin under virtual arrest by the local authorities but that does not stop the telling of a fascinating and ultimately bitter stay. Burma is a deadly place.

This is a genuine adventure from the beginning to the end told by Pinney. Some descriptors can be less than PC by today's writing standards, but that should not stop anyone who enjoys adventure travel looking out for this exceptional book. Pinney is a genuinely interesting writer and deserves a wider audience.

Recommended for those that just want to give it all away and go take a look.