The first guide to the northernmost capital city in the world covers everything from whale watching to elf-spotting, bar-hopping to hot springs and how to cook a puffin for supper. Travelers can sample the penis museum, be the next James Bond on the largest glacier in Europe, relax in a midnight spa, or bathe in a heated ocean bay. The book ranks " must-do" and " just around the corner" attractions for the time-pressed, while detailed maps and frank insider views of eateries and accommodations help enrich the visit.
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