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For over twenty years, the author was the editor of The Statesman in India. After the partition of India, Stephens expected to remain the editor of a British newspaper, with even handed representation of India and Pakistan in bring news to both countries. However, in India he was considered too Pakistan-friendly, and was reminded constantly that this was not acceptable.
On resigning, Stephens undertook four months of travel, as described in this book, published in 1953. His journey took him throughout Pakistan, but also through Kashmir, twice crossing the cease-fire line between Pakistani-held Kashmir and Indian-held Kashmir. He also travelled to the more remote areas of the Karakorum near the Chinese border, the Pathan tribal areas in Waziristan, and to Afghanistan.
Constantly at pains to be even handed, and genuinely distraught at the fact these two countries are unable to see the mutual benefits in coordination and cooperation, Stephens writes well, although perhaps a little too long winded at times. Ironically he could have done with a harder edit of his work - I think 50 pages less would have salvaged another star from me.
As a combination of his four month journey, and anecdotes and background from his previous extensive travels, this book sets out to explain much of the political and historical background of the areas visited. To a degree it is successful, although it is with 20 years experience in the situation that he explains this complex matter, and it is admittedly hard to absorb.
While Stephens also discusses some of the cross border stereotypes, he does so in an evenhanded way, dispelling most as not having been his personal experience. It is obvious from the writing that he retains a loyalty to the former British India - both India and Pakistan.
The book, while slightly overlong, is nevertheless packed with photographs. Around 10 percent are colour prints, the remainder being black and white. Perhaps I am used to older publications, but I was surprised by the excellent quality of the photos, and Stephens has a real talent for portrait photography. So many of the portraits were excellent. Maybe I am used to books with terrible quality grainy landscapes. The photography is probably worth an additional star from me.
Overall, a book worthy of reading, for those with any interest in Pakistan, Kashmir and Afghanistan in the period shortly after the partition.
4 stars.