Trans-Himalaya

The first of two volumes explaining the 1905-08 trans-Himalaya expedition, carried out against the wish of the British (and the Tibetans). At the start of the book Hedin explains that he must restrict the writing and therefore details his journey only from India onwards (omitting a seven month journey on the way from Britian), and also omits various side journeys and Monastery descriptions which he ‘postpones until a future publication'.

Largely influenced by luck, circumstance, bluff and confusion Hedin bypasses all restrictions and while politically unwelcome, he enjoys the company and protection of a number of well placed Tibetans, allowing him more success in his travels than was perhaps expected or warranted. And while the British government would not provide permission, many individuals in the British administration certainly assisted him with all means.

A warm relationship with the Tashi Lama (the 9th Panchen Lama) assisted him, as did a passport to Eastern Turkestan issued by China - which was surprising as it was for a different country! The end goal of this expedition is Shigatze, where the Tashi Lama resides, but Hedin's mapping and breaking of new routes is probably more important to him, including locating the sources of the great rivers (although this will occur in the second volume). As a trained geologist, his sample collecting and mapping southern Tibet's rivers, mountains and sacred lakes was his main passion on this expedition.

Hedin's writing maintains the interest fairly well, but there is no doubt he fixates on some detail, such as keeping a log of his horses and mules as they perish, and his altitudes and place names. It seems obvious, given he drew a prodigious number of maps on this expedition, but the lack of a map is incredibly frustrating, and makes it very hard to keep a track of his route, which seemed quite a zigzag from the way he wrote. In general however, he shares his thoughts honestly, he does a good job of explaining how he wrangles his expedition, and he also gives credit to those expedition members who manage aspects for his, and carry out his commands.

The few photographs in the book are great, but as with the maps, we writes about taking many photographs, explaining the portrait or view, and yet we don't get to see many (in this publication anyway - it seems like later editions, or the three volume edition may have included more).

Nevertheless, if you enjoy a historic expedition, this will be compelling reading, and after a short spell, I will tackle the second volume.

4.5 stars, rounded up.